The performance of Kjaer Weis products simply outdoes so many. The cream blushes, lip tints, foundations, eyeshadows are all excellent, whether taken in the context of green beauty or conventional beauty. That being said, I’m not enamored of certain products (lipsticks/eyeliners).
When I saw their cream eyeshadows were released, I was giddy with excitement because no one does cream better than KW – NO ONE (in my humble opinion). Everything is there: aesthetic, pigment, performance, color range, finish. I’ve been repurchasing the foundations/blushes for a few years now, so it’s understandable why I and many others were so looking forward to this release. Generally speaking, the great thing about cream is how easy it is to layer and blend, alongside the natural skin-like finish it leaves. It definitely can be tricker to deal with in terms of longevity, however due to my very good experience with KW cream blushes in oily/sweaty skin situations, I wasn’t that worried about its performance in this aspect. I do want to note that as oily as my face can be… my eyelids are even oilier. Thus, only conventional eyeshadows truly last long on me, and I simply have no expectations of eye products withstanding my oily eyelids. I expect creasing/smudging with any eye product I purchase and in this absence of expectations I have no disappointments (ahem maybe a few).
I’m a full-on heavy mascara/black liner/neutral lip type of girl. Since I’m not really big on eyeshadow, I haven’t tried as many brands as in other make-up categories. However, KW and Nu evolution definitely have a place in my Palettes and I do enjoy them. In general, I like to use products for different purposes than just their original intent. For example, I use a lot of blush/bronzer products and sometimes even lipsticks (just make sure you’re sanitary) as my eyeshadow. I absolutely am a fan of using the KW cream blushes in Embrace/Reverence for a subtle hint of pink on the eyes, which in turn mimics my cheeks and lips and thus brings together the whole look. It’s a very natural and simple way to brighten up your complexion without wearing a load of eye product. Due to this, naturally I’m very much used to wearing not just powder but also cream on my eyelids. Having an actual product labeled “cream eyeshadow” doesn’t necessarily make it different than just using your blush/lipstick, and if it does, then I hope the formula of that product has been well-tailored to more specific needs – i.e. lasting longer on the lids, etc. I decided to go for the cream KW eye shadows and assess how they perform. I often wear netural eye looks and only occasionally rock a daring look, so I purchased the more subtle colors Alluring and Gorgeous. I go for the refills ($28) for use in my palettes as opposed to the full casing ($48) – it’s much more economical this way and easier to collect more colors (click here to purchase).
Essentially, if I were to describe them in the shortest way possible, I would say that these eyeshadows share the cream/paste consistency as its blush/lipstick sisters, are firmer in formula than the cream blushes, and are also more difficult to get out smoothly. Pigment, color range, and finish are all in place. It’s essentially similar to the KW lipsticks in that they need warmth of your fingers to really get them going. This detail, though frustrating, does make them more well suited for the eye area as they are more likely to stay put in this way. For this same reason I’m not a fan of using eyeshadow brushes to deposit the product on my eyelids. What I love about the color in Alluring, though, is that I simply use my fingers to apply, and that’s it. I really don’t even need a brush, and this color looks so good just by itself without any additional colors. Alluring is honestly just a beautiful and extremely easy way to enhance your look. Gorgeous is a bit darker, yet still brightens up the eyes. Both colors work in such a subtle yet uber sexy way to enhance your natural beauty.
One very important detail to state here is that I have noticed Alluring (gold) is much easier to apply than Gorgeous (purple). I took pictures at different angles (shown below) to really give you an idea of the textural differences. The bumps/bruises on Gorgeous are from me trying to assess whether it was just the surface layer that was giving me resistance in application, or whether the product as a whole was much more firm and drier than Alluring. I know that in many formulations, different colors have slightly different characteristics to them, but this is pretty dramatic. It’s almost as if it’s two completely different brands trying to re-create the same product.
This problem reminded me of the lipsticks from the brand, in which certain colors had issues that the rest did not (read my review here). I once again turned to look at the ingredients to see what I could discover:
Mica , Octyldodecanol, Coconut alkanes , Cocos nucifera (Coconut) oil∙, Zea mays (Corn) starch∙, Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba ) wax∙, Cera alba (Beeswax)∙ , Euphorbia cerifera (Candelilla) wax, Ricinus communis (Castor) seed oil∙, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil, Gallic acid, Glyceryl stearate,Camellia sinensis leaf extract, CI 77491 (iron oxides), CI 77499 (iron oxides), CI 77891 (titanium dioxide).
Octyldodecanol, Coconut alkanes, Mica, Zea mays (Corn) starch∙, Cocos nucifera (Coconut) oil∙, Copernicia cerifera (Carnauba ) wax∙, Cera alba (Beeswax)∙, Euphorbia cerifera (Candelilla) wax, Ricinus communis (Castor) seed oil∙, Coco-caprylate/caprate, Helianthus annuus (Sunflower) seed oil, Silica, Gallic acid, Glyceryl stearate, Camellia sinensis leaf extract, CI 77007 (ultramarines), CI 77499 (iron oxides), CI 77891 (titanium dioxide).
As you can see from which ingredients I made bold, there are only two differences I can spot (Mica and Silica). Whether these are causing enough of an impact to influence the textural differences or I simply just got a bad batch, I am not certain. The drier formulations again I can see as being more suitable for the eye lids for the purposes of longevity, but honestly with the consistency of Gorgeous, I would much rather use the similar shade Abundance from the cream blush range. And here is the formula for said blush:
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Seed Oil•, Mica, Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil•, Zea Mays (Corn) Starch•, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax•, Cera Alba •, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil•, Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil•, Polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, Vanilla Planifolia Fruit Extract•, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Tocopheryl Acetate, CI 77491 (Iron Oxide), CI 77499 (Iron Oxide), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
The blush clearly contains more oils, but it does share a similar profile. This is why I really don’t mind using any of these cream formulations on my eyes, whether they are labeled ‘eye shadow’ or not. This is also due to the fact that Alluring and Gorgeous still crease on my very oily eyelids, so it gives me more freedom to not be as picky haha!
In any case, it is admittedly more difficult to work with the purple color Gorgeous, yet it’s also not impossible. I still am able to use my fingers and apply the beautiful color on my eyes, just not with as much ease. If you aren’t as forgiving as I am, definitely keep this in mind before purchasing the full size because honestly it is a bit disappointing. I don’t think ‘natural’ beauty means that products have more limitations- look at how many new brands are coming out with new releases that are surpassing our expectations. I hold Kjaer Weis to a very high standard due to the AMAZING blushes/foundations we have been blessed with, thus I hope their lipstick and cream eyeshadow formulations continue to improve over time. I do want to say though that if all the colors can have the same consistency as Alluring, then I will very strongly recommend these products without any hesitation. I think we would all rather layer with powder and deal with some creasing rather than have a very dry/difficult product to work with that’s focusing more on longevity. I am not certain how the remaining two colors in this first launch are as I have not purchased them yet, so I cannot speak for Enticing and Sublime. I am looking forward to trying them out in the future, however, because I can imagine how well for example Sublime and the pressed powder KW eye-shadow in Green Depth will go together. I would love to see warmer colors (burnt orange, burgundy, etc) be released in the future! If you’re a fan of KW, I highly recommend Alluring. For the rest, I do suggest samples prior to purchase just to make sure you’re okay with the formulations.